Tales from NOLA: Driving past the cemetery

One of the least-talked about consequence of Hurricane Katrina is the psychological damage many New Orleanians suffered. People who stayed struggle to cope with the memories of the horrific days after the storm. One woman describes driving past a cemetery in New Orleans four days after the storm:

After four days we'd decided to get the fuck out of town. Things were out of control and we had no idea if they were going to improve. The National Guard was standing on street corners firing rifles into the air, there were rumors of roving gangs killing indiscriminately, and the whole city stunk.

As we tried to find a safe way out of town, we drove past the cemetery. I just began crying. There were caskets strewn on the ground. Fortunately I didn't see any actual bodies. But after four days of wondering if the world was ending, to see coffins lying there, I just broke down.

Driving by there last week, it all came back. I started crying again, not just because of the memory of the cemetery, but from the memory of the whole thing.

As she was telling me this story, she began crying. For many victims with whom I've spoken, they relive the event when they retell the story. Despite this, people want to tell their stories. "How'd you make out from the storm," and "where'd you evacuate to?" have replaced inanity about the weather.

Bars and restaurants are full of chatter about remodeling, elevating, and FEMA checks. As the rest of the country moves on, this is the defining event in the lives of hundreds of thousands of people.

thoughts on New Orleans

Some general impressions of New Orleans:

• Groceries are considerably more expensive than in Baton Rouge, and supermarkets are of lower quality. The produce I sampled at several grocery stores was pricey and not particularly fresh (though not Whole Foods, where the produce is outstanding and expensive). Seafood sections are also pathetic. Some of this, I think, can be attributed to the worker shortage. Everything is just a little less clean and pleasant here.
  
  
• Though the city was jumping on Friday and Saturday night, because of the French Quarter Festival and the mayoral election, on weeknights, the emptiness of the city sets in. With the city's population still not half of what it was before the storm, the streets are quiet and lonely. There are few panhandlers and homeless, almost no foot traffic, and few cars.
  
  
• Bourbon Street, even on a normal weekend, is just as insipid as it appears on television. Beads rain down from drunken revelers on balconies, groups of college boys stand around trying to coerce breasts out of hiding, and the stench of booze and dirty water hangs in stale air.
  
  

I've made some friends with New Orleanians who stayed through the storm. Their stories are incredible, and in the coming days and weeks I'll begin sharing some with y'all.

transferred to NOLA

I've been transferred to New Orleans. This will give me a chance to assess how livable the city is. One of the major challenges facing the city continues to be availability of the basics, like a fully stocked grocery store or accessible fast food restaurants. I'll also be here for the mayoral election, which is a week from yesterday. I'm hoping for some exciting campaign shenanigans.

In other news, I've finalized my June travel plans. To all Minneapolitans, I'll be there from June 12-25, let's hang out. I'm also planning to spend some time looking at real estate there. Recently I've become addicted to searching for Minneapolis real estate. It is so much more affordable than in DC and is compelling me to move there.

In other travel-related news, I'll be in Las Vegas from June 7-11, and San Francisco from June 26 to July 1. If you are there, come hang out with me. If you aren't, come visit me.

back in Louisiana

I've returned to Louisiana from my European tour. It was a wonderful trip, Madrid, the Portuguese coast, and a brief period in Lisbon. I return to the south to find things unchanged, progress is slow and beset by myriad challenges. As the New Orleans mayoral race approaches, new challenges are emerging as candidates seek to score political points and curry favor with residents and evacuees.

In Louisiana they have open primaries, with a runoff election if no candidate gets 50% of the vote. With 22 candidates, it seems unlikely any candidate will get there, prolonging the political limbo facing the city. I don't know enough to favor a candidate, and am at this point in favor of a resolution and a leader with a vision for the future of the city. I suspect most New Orleanians want as well.

Oh, I've posted Six Pictures for Lisbon and Madrid's Botanical Gardens.